Method of seaming coats and the like



June 8,1926. 1,588,131

C. W. MUELLER METHOD OF SEAMING COATS AND THE LIKE I Filed Feb. 9. 1924 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 v v 1 rl I J \7 gwwml oz June 8,1926. 1,588,131

C. W. MUELLER METHOD OF SEAMING COATS AND THE LIKE Filed Feb. 9. 1924 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 [im /o 1 Patented June 8, i 1926;

UNITED STATES *PATlZNT OFFICE.

CHARLES w. MUELLER, or s'r. LOUIS, mssoum, AssI'eNoa. .uio LEwIs INVISIBLE STITCH MACHINE 00., OF ST. LOUIS,

mrssouar, a CORPORATION or MAINE.

METHOD OI SEAMING COATS AND THE LIKE.

Application filed February 9, 1924. Serial No. 891,637.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in methods for seaming sewed articles generally, although the invention is more particularly directed to a method of joining the edge portions of the'fore-part, facing and interlining of a coat.

Heretofore, the practice has been to first,

arrange the fore part and the facing of a coat in a superim osed relation with their outer edges coinci ing, placing a tape upon the fore-part adjacent said outer edges, and stitching the entirety by a single line of through-and-through'stitches. An interlining. is then stitched to the tape, generally by a line of blind stitches, and the facing is then turned over upon the interlining. Although the fold is subsequently pressed, there is a tendency during the wearing of the coat for the edge thus seamed and'folded to roll, that is, the edge portionlof the facing tends to roll outwardly. To overcomethis objection it has been customary to hand stitch the facing to the interlining, but this hand operation is necessaril slow and consequent y costly, the stitc es are spaced irregularly and great care must be exercised in order to avoid any of these hand made stitches from penetrating the fore-part of the coat, or from passing entirely through the facing and thereby becoming visible on the fair side thereof, or creatmgpuckering in the outer face or fair sideof the facing due to tightly.

My invention has amongst its several objects, to provide ,a'method of seam-ing the edges of coats which wilLresult in a greater production at a lesser cost, in insuring. a sufliciently tightseam to prevent rolling of the edge, in avoiding any of the stitches be-' ing visible on the fair side tithe facing, -and .in avoiding any puckering effect on the fairfside of the facing v In the accompanying drawings which illustrate the successive steps in carrying out my method, the .parts are con'siderablyexaggerated and the parts are spread out to better disclose the constructionw- In the drawings:

1 method, and shows in section, the facing,

the stitches being set too Figure 1 illustrates the first step in relation and seamed by a line of througha-nd-through stitches.

Figure 2 illustrates the second step in my method, and is similar to Fi ure 1, except I that it shows the joining of the interlining to the tape by a line of blind-stitches.

Figure 3 i1 method the view being in section'and showing theparts folded and temporarily seamed.

I Figure 4 illustrates thefourth step in my method, the view being in section and more or less diagrammatic, and showing the fold.- ed position of the work and the relation of the stitches which join the facing and interlining.

Figure 5 is a view similar toFigure 4, but slowing the work being fed through a blind-stitch sewing machine.

Figure 6 illustrates the fifth step in my method, an is a view similar to Figure 4 but showing the lining only being-penetrated by a line of blind-stitches.

Figure 7 is a view similar to Figure 6 but showing the workbeing fed through the sewingimachine. I

Figure 8 is a sectional view of the completed seam, the stitches being diagrammatically shown, and

ing the line of stitches which successively engage the facing and the lining and the lining only. i

Like reference nuinerals'designate corresponding parts throughout the several, figures of the drawings. 1

In carryingout my method, I-first construct a primary seain for the edge of a coat. by disposing the facing 5 and theforepart 6 in superposed relation with their. outer or marginal edges 7 coinciding. ,A tape 8 is positioned upon the fore-part adjacentsaid outer edges 7 and the three parts are then .fed through a single needle sewing machine so asto initially seam said parts by a line ot "throughmnd-through stitches 9 which parallel said edges 7, as shown in Figure l. 2 The workisthen passed through a blind stitch 'sewing machine and an interlining 10 [is attached to the tape 8 by a line of blind stitches which is..diagrammaticallyillustrated' at 11 as shown in Fig. 2. 1

The purpose of securing the inter-lining to ustrates the third step in my Figure 9 is a plan view of the seam showthe primary seam is an incident of manufacture, and, therefore, the interlining and the tape may beconsidered as an entirety, viz, an interlining which is secured to the forepart and facing by the line of stitches 9.

I then fold the facing 5 upon the interlining 10 and temporarily seam the parts as thus folded by a line of bastin stitches 12, which are preferably of the single thread chain stitch type and are dis osed in a line parallel to and adjacent the lnfolded edges 7 of the facing and fore-part, as shown in Fig. 3. The edge portion thus folded and temporarily stitched, will hereinafter be referred to as the main seamed portion 13.

I then open the work thus previously seamed, so as to position the facing 5 in a substantially horizontal plane on one side of the main seamed portion 13 and position the interlining 10 and fore-part 6 in superposed relation and in the same horizontal plane as the facing, but on the other side of the main seamed portion 13, said main seamedportion 13 being disposed below the horizontal plane containing the facing, fore part and-lining and arranged with its marginal edges 7 projecting upwardly. Thus the facing and the interlining are folded in one direction and the fore-part is folded in theopposite direction,-along a line parallel to the main or previously formed seam. By.

means of the basting stitches 12, the facing 5 and interlining 10 are retained in fixed relation directly above the main seamed portion 13.

in. this position of the work, it is vfed through ablind-stitch sewing machine, such 'as constitutes the subject-matter of my copending application filed February 9, 1924, Ser. No. 691,638. This machine seams the facing and interlining by ,a line 14 of blindstitches, the seam constituting the subject matter of my copendingapplication filed January 9, 1924,'Ser. No. 685,174.

The sewing machine includes a needle 15 having a needle thread 16 and a cooperating rotary hook 17 carrying a bobbin thread 18, the needle and the hook being both disposed above the work andthe needle arranged to oscillate about a horizontal axis and across the line of seam. Cooperating. with the work, is a presser-foot 19 having an opening 20, a work clamp 21, a feed dog 22, and a plunger 23. The plunger reciprocates verticallin timed relation to the needle and fee and comprises relatively fixed and movable 'arts 24 and 25,.res ectively, forming there tween a guiding c a'nnel 26 for the main seamed portion 13. The plunger engages the under face of the work and causes the latter to be formed into a .nodewhich is projected by said plunger through the presser-foot opening 20 into thepath'of the needle 15. In alternate reci rocations-of the plunger, the relatively fixe part 24 is projected above the relatively movable part 25, and inasmuch as the fixed part 24 engages the facing, the latter will be elevated into the same horizontal plane as the interlining which interlining and fore-part are disposed above and are engaged by the relatively movable part 25 of the plunger. In this position, as shown in Fig.5, the needle 15 willenter and emerge from the upper faces of the facing 5 and interlinin 10, and leave a needle thread loop 27, Whic is anchored by the bobbin thread 18. In the intermediate,

reciprocations of the plunger, the relatively stationary part 24 will remain in its normal position, i. e., with its upper end disposed in substantially ,the' same horizontal plane as -mittent tension mechanism which acts on the needle thread 16 to loosely concatenate the needle thread loops 27 with the bobbin thread 18 and to tightly concatenate the nee dle thread loops 28 with said bobbin thread. Thus the stitches which engage the facing and interlining are loosely set whereas those stitches which engage the interlining only are tightly set. a

After the work has-been removed from the blind stitch sewing machine, it is pressed and the line of basting stitches 12 is withdrawn.

If the usual needle thread tension were Y employed, and this tension were loosened, then all of the stitcheswould be loosely set and a seam of such looseness would be created which would fail to function to retain the seam from rolling, although such loosely set stitches would eliminate a puckered ap-' pearance of the outer face or fair side of the facing.

. By reason of the needle thread loops pene trating the facing and interliningdurlng every other stitch only, coupled with the loose setting of such stitches, and with the tight setting of the alternate stitches which 20 engage the interlining only, an ideal situation results inthat the facing is retained against rolling during the wearing of the garment and the appearance of dimples or puckering on the outer face or fair side of the facing is prevented.

From the fore oing it will be seen that my method inclu es the joining of two previously seamed body fabrics, namely the facinoand the interlining, thence folding the fabrics outwardly along a line parallel to saidpreviously formed seam whereby said fabrics will lie in a substantially horizontal plane on opposite sides of said seam, and thence feeding said fabrics past a stitch forming mechanism and simultaneously joining said fabrics adjacent said fold by a line of blind stitches including a' series of equally spaced penetrant needle thread loops which enter andgemer e respectively from the upper faces of the abrics.

I claim a 1. The method of joining two fabrics consisting in first seaming the fabric sections in superposed relation by a line of throughand-through stitches ad acent to and parallel to one edge thereof, then folding the fabric sections outwardly on opposite sides of said seam and disposing the seamed edge ortion below the horizontal plane contain- 111g the sections, and finally joining said fabric sections by a line of stitches directly above said seamed portion while said fabric sections are disposed in said horizontalplane.

2.. The method of joining two previously seamed superimposed body fabrics consiststantially horizontalplane on opposite sides of said seam, and. thence intermittently feeding said fabrics past a stitch forming mechanism and simultaneously joining said fabrics adjacent said fold by a line of blind stitches including a series of equally spaced and anchored enetrant-needle thread loops which alternate y enter the upper face of one pnly of the body fabrics, and .enter and emerge res ctively from the upper faces of both bo yvfabrics. 3. The method of joining two body fabrics consisting in first arranging said body fabrics in superposed relation with their outer edges coinciding, then initially seamingsaid'fabrics by a line of through-andthrough stitches extending parallel to said outer edges. then folding the lower fabric onto the upper fabric so as to dispose the seamed portion therebetween, then securing said fabrics by a lineof basting stitches 'extending parallel to said fold, a'nd forming a resultant main seamed portion, then folding'thefabrics outwardly so as to dispose them in a substantially horizontal plane on opposite sides of said main seamed'portion, and finally joining said fabrics adjacent said fold by a line of blind stitches including a series of equally spaced and anchored penetrant needle thread loops which enter and emergefrom the upper faces of the body, fabrics. 4:. The method of joining two body fab- -rics'consisting in first arranging said body --fabrics in superposed relation with their outer edges coinclding, then initially seamtion, then fo ing said fabrics by a' line of through-andthrough stitches extending parallel to saidouter edges, then folding the lower; fabric onto the upper fabric so as to dispose the seamed portion therebetween, then securing said fabrics by a line of basting stitches ex tending parallel to said fold, and forming a resultant main seamed portion, then folding the fabrics outwardly so as to dispose them in a substantially horizontal plane on opposite sides of'said main seamed portion,

and thence intermittently feeding said fabrics past a stitch forming mechanism and simultaneously joining said fabrics adjacent said fold by a line of blind stitches including a series of equally spaced and anchored penetrant needle thread loops which alternately enter the upper face-of one of the body fabrics, and enter and emerge re spectively from the upper faces of both body fabrics, said stitches being alternately set tight and loose.

The method of seaming coats consisting in first securing the facing, fore-part and interlining in superposed relation b a line of through-and-through stitches a ja cent to and parallel to one edge thereof, then folding the facing so as to dispose thesame in a substantially horizontal plane containing the fore-part .and interlining and positioning the seamed edge portion below said horizontal plane, andfinally joining said facing and interlining by a line of stitches directly above said seamed portion while said facing and interlihing are disposed'in said horizontal lane, f

6. The metho of seaming coats consisting in first securing the facing, fore-part and i n-'- terlining 1n superposed relation by a lineof basting stitches extending parallel to said fold and forming a resultant main seamed portion,t hen folding thefacing outwardly and so as to dispose the same in a horizontal lane containing the fore-part and interlinlng, and finally joining said facing and interlining directly above the main seamedportion by a'line of blind stitches includmg a series'of equally spaced and anchored penetrant needle thread loops which enterv and ,emer e from the upper faces of said facing an interli'ning. I 7. The method of seaming coats consisting in first securing the facing, fore-part and interlining in superposed relation by a line of through-and-throngh stitches adjacent to and parallel to one edge thereof, then folding t e facing over and upon the interlining, then securing the fabrics by a line of basting stitches extending parallel to said fold and forming a resultant main seamed pording the, facing outwardly so as to dispose the same in a, horizontal plane from the upper faces of said facing and incontaining the fore-partand interlining, and terlining, 'sald stitches being alternately set finally joining said facing and interlining tight and loose directly above the main seamed port-ion by In testimony whereof I hereunto aflix my 5 a. line of blind stitches including a series of signature.

equally spaced and anchored penetrant needle thread loops which enter and emerge i 7 CHARLES \V. MUELLER. 

